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Thread: Extra Parts List

  1. #1
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    Default Extra Parts List

    Here's a list of extra parts I have on my car.

    NONE of these things are necessary. They're merely a reflection of my own preferences, as well as suggestions I've gotten from other Noble owners. Some of the parts (ahem, power mods) may take the vehicle beyond the design parameters engineered by the factory and may void applicable sections of your warranty; do at your own risk.

    Prices are approximate.

    I'll modify this list as I go.

    If you have questions or comments and want to speak over the phone, feel free to PM me. I'm by no means an expert, but would be glad to chat.


    HEAT MANAGEMENT:

    1. Lizardskin Ceramic Insulation ($200 for one two gallon tub... MUCH more than necessary, but it's currently the only size offered). Reduces temps 25-30 degrees, and noise 10-12dB. I used this on the firewall, on the two sides of the gas tank facing the heat (not on top, nor on side facing sidevent), as well as in the center tunnel, and under the intercooler box (rear turbo sits RIGHT under it), as well as on the front panel of the intercooler box. I'm guessing this is going to work pretty well because Greg Robb does the same thing, and we sprayed the extra stuff under the hoods of a few other cars and you can really feel the temperature difference. In this car, a lot of heat comes through the firewall and center tunnel, from what EVERYONE says. We're talking EVERYONE. Controlling heat at these two points should really pay off. Update: Yep, this is a GREAT mod, definitely effective!

    2. Spal 5.6" pull-type Fan ($35) for the Mocal oil cooler on passenger side. Will it work? I'm guessing yes, because we've seen similar things work with other cars. How well though, is anyone's guess at this point. Will be attached to thermostat. Update: Yes, it seems to keep temperatures down. Max I've seen is 80 degrees C.

    3. Spal 7.5" pull-type Fan ($50) for drivers side side pod. Will it work? Not sure, may need ducting. Will be attached electrically to the 5.6" fan on the other side. Side note: other manufacturers make higher cfm fans in 8" size, which would also fit and would be a better choice, especially since the motor on this fan is rather large. Update: This side not necessary, don't bother.

    4. Jet-Hot 2000 coating (not their lower temperature sterling product) for the exhaust manifolds ($170). Good for 2450 degrees F or to the melting point of the material its applied to. Should keep heat in tubes, definitely a good thing. Will it work? I'm betting yes, shown to reduce surface temps by more than 50%. Should give just a tad more hp and throttle response, but nothing major. Because we do not have tubular headers, you should NOT use header wrap on them.
    • Update: Their new MC-15 coating rejects heat better, eventhough it's not good for as high temperature. I'm switching over, getting my exhaust manifold resprayed. I'm also getting the turbo's turbine housing done.
    5. Thermo-Tec Copper Heat Wrap ($42 per 50' 2" thick roll, I bought 2, probably need 1) for downpipe and exhaust. Supposed to improve heat resistance by 30% over original 2000 degree wrap formula. Will it work? Yes, should keep heat in pipes. Will it work 30% better than other wraps? Could be yes, could be pure marketing. Update: So far, it's working very well. It's keeping the heat in, and it still looks in new condition.

    6. Thermo-Tec Hi-Heat Coating Spray, Silver ($6 per can) to spray heat wrap, so it's no longer that ugly orange color. Good for 2000 degrees F. Will it work? Um, it's paint, it should cover up the orange nicely, thank you very much. Update: Good investment. It seems to protect the heat wrap.

    7. Heat Shield Products Turbo Blanket ($60 each, 1 per turbo). Only need to get the turbo one, not full kit (since header wrap works well for the downpipes). Some suggest only using this with water cooled turbos, since it keeps heat in. Drastically keeps radiating heat down. Hard to install after engine is already in, but definitely doable. Greg Robb also carries his own brand, which is already cut to fit and velcro's on I believe (I could be wrong). Greg's may be easier to install if you already have your engine in, but is a more expensive way to go. Update: Seems the HeatShieldProducts one died VERY quickly. I'd suggest going with Greg's. I picked up a new pair which other people have been pretty happy with. Turbo Blanket from Phase2Motortrend. There's another choice too: Advanced Thermal Products Turbo Insulation Shield, which is rated for 3000 degrees F.

    8. High temp plastic lined throttle cable ($10) Teflon coated is also nice. Smoother throttle action, and more heat resistant. Several Noble owners have said their stock one melted. Also suggest:
    _ A. Thermal sleeve (those orange tubes) for the throttle cable.
    _ B. Move the throttle cable away from the front turbo. LOTS of heat there. Some noble owners have suggested moving throttle cable to the driver's side sill.

    9. Earl's Billet Aluminum Sandwich Style Oil Thermostat ($83). This allows your oil to bypass the cooler until it reaches operating temperatures. Faster warmup = easier on your engine. Necessary? Nah. Nice to have? Yeah.

    10. Heat Shielding (bubble type) for top of intercooler box ($10 or so). Helps keep heat from rear turbo and exhaust system from soaking into your intercooler. Update: Highly recommended. You don't necessarily need this type of insulation, but some type will help. The top of the intercooler box goes from scalding to touchable.

    11. 600 Degree F Aircraft Silicon Duct Hosing, 2.5" diameter, 11' long ($60). Use for brake ducting to cool front brakes.

    12. Intercooler heat shield ($199). Works great to help keep intercooler temperatures down, shielding it better from the hot exhaust muffler can(s).


    PLANNED:

    1. 2 pull-type fans for the intercooler, depending on what fits and can provide greatest CFM's. A pair of the Zirgo 8" 1000cfm fans looks to be a winner.

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    PERFORMANCE:

    1. Racelogic Programmable Traction Control with Launch Control, Full Throttle Shift, and 4 Wheel Speed Sensors ($1600-$1875, depending on who you buy from. If group purchase, can be much closer to $1k mark). Everyone that has one seems to love it, and the higher the HP of the car, the more the owner seems to like the unit. Also requires:
    _ A. Toothed wheel for the driver's side front wheel, identical to the one on the passenger side front. Can be purchased from 1g. This is needed for the wheel speed sensor.
    _ B. Switch of some sort for the clutch, for the full throttle shift option. Can be purchased at any auto store.

    2. HKS Racing Bypass Valve, Red Dot (highest boost level, 12-18 psi) ($160), used so that when throttle plate slams shut, air does not backflow and damage turbos. Install is easier if you pick up a blowoff valve adapter ($40 or so). I personally chose a bypass valve because it routes air back in front of the turbo, to keep it spooled up, for slightly faster throttle response. For MAS systems, since the air is already measured, it doesn't have the tendancy to make your car run rich, unlike blowoff valves. Ours are MAP though, so it doesn't matter as much. This being said, blowoff valves sound much louder and seem to be much much more popular.

    3. Blitz Sequential Boost Controller i-D ($450). Controls boost safely regardless of altitude and humidity. Very small control unit, so should be relatively easy to find a good location for it.

    4. Blitz Full Auto Turbo Timer ($90). Allows turbo to cool down after car is turned off, also allows you to monitor your battery & alternator voltage. Very small control unit, so easy to find a good location for it. Not a huge deal with this generation of Garrett ceramic ball bearing cartridge based turbos with watercooling (M400 or GTO-3R with optional watercooling kit), but the extra bit of cooling is nice. I wired mine so that all of the fans in the engine bay turn on when the turbo timer kicks on. Install takes a bit of extra effort, since the alarm doesn't want to activate with engine on. Also, be sure to attach the handbrake line, so that the engine dies immediately when handbrake is released (extra protection so people can't steal car).

    5. Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel for Contour SVT ($320) for faster throttle response, and less load on engine. Weighs 9lbs compared with 18.2lb stock. Made very well. CNC machined 6061 T6 aluminum, with 1050 high carbon steel friction surface, grade 8 button screw fasteners. Install note: aluminum flywheels go on tighter at ambient temperature than steel/iron. Update: car practically rev's like a motorcycle, but it's a little easier to stall with parking lot manuvers (though surprisingly, not too bad at all). Takes a little getting used to with our ultra-short clutch.

    6. Hawker Odyssey PC680MJT Battery ($110). Sealed drycell battery, an improvement on the Optima Yellowtop design. Supposedly capable of more true deep cycles than any other battery on the market (over 400 at 100% depth). Metal jacketed for extra protection (good for the hot engine bay in our cars. Still use the thermal blanket supplied from Noble for the Optima on it). Weighs 15.8lbs, compared to the stock Optima's 38lbs, but will not last as long between drives (so if you leave the car in the garage for weeks at a time, may not be a good choice). Also, wired up the positive with an extra lead, so that it can be easily jumped if necessary. I HIGHLY suggest this extra wiring, since the battery is in a difficult to get to location. Update: Make sure you're getting enough juice for your needs, this is a SMALL battery. Definitely not a mod for everyone.
    7. Bell Bar & Plate Type Intercooler ($725). 18" x 10.5" x 3.5". Tapered end tanks. Louvered fins. Update: this intercooler is AWESOME. Exit side seems to say right near ambient, even after pushing the car very VERY hard for extended periods. I installed two 8" Zirgo 1000 CFM each fans on the back, pull type. It's way more than necessary with this quality of intercooler. 1 Fan is enough.

    8. Bosch 044 Fuel Pump ($220). Pump is virtually identical in size to our stock one, but flows up to 300lph. Good for up to 700hp. If you're going for more than this, 2 can be used in parallel as many do on very very high HP Porsche turbo applications.


    PLANNED:

    1. PLX R-500 Wideband O2 Sensor + AF Data Logging Computer ($579). See precisely how rich/lean the car is running at each RPM point. Also, has knock detection.

    2. Apexi S-AFC II ($220). Allows you to bump or cut fuel curve up to +/- 50% at up to 8 points on the RPM scale, down to 500 rpm increments. Unfortunately, many standalone system like the HKS F-CON V Pro won't work. A truly universal one, like the Motec will, but it's seriously costly.

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    MISC:

    1. Nautilus Air Horn ($40) - much louder than the stock "meep-meep". Everyone seems to love them. Another good choice may be the Hella SuperTone Horn Kit ($60), which is a dissonant sounding horn (irritating, but irritating may be a good thing in a horn). Easy install, fits in stock location. Update: definitely worth doing.

    2. Panasonic CQ-C9801U cd receiver headunit ($250). This unit is rated at 4 x 60w RMS and 70w max, thanks to its TriPath digital amps. High end stuff without the pricetag.

    3. Focal Polyglass 165CV 6.5" Coax speakers ($220). Again, high end sound, and with 93dB sensitivity, so a good choice for those not wanting to go with separate amplification. Separate crossovers included, with -3dB to +3dB adjustment for tweeters. Lots of lower cost choices available as well. The Directed SX650 ($90) should be very linear, and very light.

    4. Metra 44-UA20 Electronic Magnetic Antenna ($30) - Supposed to be reasonably good (though not as good as a normal whip type or extension type), and allows you to avoid the "RC Car" look. Update: bleh, reception is mediocre.

    5. XTC Speaker Baffles, Foam ($8) Keeps moisture off the back of your speakers, and doesn't rattle, unlike the plastic ones. I bought 6.5" x 3.25" and 6.75" x 3.375", not knowing which will fit better on my speakers. Update: the 6.5" fit better.

    6. Line-X Truck Bed Liner Spray to protect front clamshell bottom lip ($110). Can be sprayed on smoothly, and even sprayed over and repaired if damaged. Looks clean, and protects the front lip from curbs. Very tough material. How tough? Used as bomb blast shielding.

    7. T25/T28 Inlet Gasket, stainless steel ($25 for two). If your turbos fit perfectly flat with the exhaust manifold, they're not strictly necessary. However, a good gasket is always recommended, especially for high HP or high boost applications. Good for a nice clean seal.

  4. #4
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    Default Noble Extra Parts List

    Thank you!!! This is a huge help. This Forum is fantastic!

    This one is downloaded to my hardrive.

  5. #5
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    I have to echo Brian. Thanks so much for all the information and photos that you've provided. You've made the site a real resource.
    Ferrari 308GTSi.
    Lotus Elise, SY, SCCA T2 legal.
    Noble M400, 515bhp.

  6. #6
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    You guys are very welcome.

    Just updated with the oil thermostat info. Some people have asked about it.
    RacePrecision GotApex

    "Be ashamed to die until you have won some victory for humanity." ~ Horace Mann

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    Updated with new info in the power section.
    RacePrecision GotApex

    "Be ashamed to die until you have won some victory for humanity." ~ Horace Mann

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    Wow, thanks x1000

    I've been lurking for a while on pistonheads and was just directed over here today. All these mods/tips are very helpfull, and not that expensive - thanks!

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    Excellent write up! One thing to mention is the HKS F-Con V-Pro may yet work on the Noble. Are there any warranty issues associated with the purchase?

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    I had XS Engineering check up on the F-Con V-Pro, but unfortunately, the signal coming out of the MBE ECU isn't something the HKS unit would recognize. You may want to hook up a scope and double check though, as I have a limited understanding of that.

    In terms of the warranty, there shouldn't be any problem with the heat protection products. If you upgrade the power, associated breakage would be your own responsibility, IMHO (turn up the boost and melt a piston, and you pay for it. Turn up the boost and your door handle falls off, they'd still take care of it).

    My thought though is when you modify a car, you pay to play. The bright side is everything seems so inexpensive for this car. Heck, the engine, fully built, tesed, and shipped, is still just $5100. How much is a valve job on a 993? $10k?
    RacePrecision GotApex

    "Be ashamed to die until you have won some victory for humanity." ~ Horace Mann

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