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  1. #1
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    Default Oil light flickering and on

    Took car for drive today and after about an hour I noticed my oil light flickering. I looked at my oil pressure gauge and it reads fine at idle and moves up when accelerating. Checked oil level and it is full. On my way home it came on solid but pressure was fine. When I pulled into my drive way the light went off for about 30 seconds then started to flicker on and off. Any suggestions on where to start the trouble shooting process?

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    I am reminded of some old Lucas Electric "Prince of Darkness" jokes, even though they don't necessarily apply to the Noble .
    On fiberglass cars, however, (no matter who supplies the electrical components) it is not uncommon that faulty ground connections can produce electrical issues, so you might want to start by tracing those connections on your car.
    Joel

    '67 Lotus Elan S3 DHC (owned since 1970)
    '17 Ford Focus RS

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joel View Post
    I am reminded of some old Lucas Electric "Prince of Darkness" jokes, even though they don't necessarily apply to the Noble .
    On fiberglass cars, however, (no matter who supplies the electrical components) it is not uncommon that faulty ground connections can produce electrical issues, so you might want to start by tracing those connections on your car.
    Ok. Makes some sense since I recently installed a new sound system. I have a question, in reviewing the electrical diagrams it looks like the oil LIGHT is driven by the ECU and the oil gauges (pressure & temp) are driven off actual sensors. Am I correct? If so what gives oil pressure info to the ECU?

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    The oil pressure warning light sensor turns on the warning light by grounding it. There is a single wire that runs from the sensor body to the big, white, 8-pin connector near the ECU (connector RR03 in the build manual). From there it runs through the tunnel, up behind the center stack, and into a connector near the steering column (connector INT14 in the build manual). If the conductor inside the insulation of that wire touches bare chassis or engine metal anywhere, the resulting ground connection will cause the warning light to illuminate.

    The most likely spot for a intermittent short circuit to ground is in the engine compartment because that's where the heat is, and heat melts wire insulation.



    Jeff

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    Quote Originally Posted by NobleM400 View Post
    The oil pressure warning light sensor turns on the warning light by grounding it. There is a single wire that runs from the sensor body to the big, white, 8-pin connector near the ECU (connector RR03 in the build manual). From there it runs through the tunnel, up behind the center stack, and into a connector near the steering column (connector INT14 in the build manual). If the conductor inside the insulation of that wire touches bare chassis or engine metal anywhere, the resulting ground connection will cause the warning light to illuminate.

    The most likely spot for a intermittent short circuit to ground is in the engine compartment because that's where the heat is, and heat melts wire insulation.



    Jeff
    Excellent info. I will check it out. Thank you!

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    Here's another tidbit. I'm hugely embarrassed that I don't remember this for sure, but I'm pretty sure this pic shows the oil pressure warning light sensor. You can see that the wire coming out of it would be close to the front turbo. My guess is that's where your trouble is.



    Jeff

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    Guess what! That is the problem! I looked closer at that again and found that wire somewhat melted. I pulled on it and could hear it crackle from where it melted. You the man! I owe you!

  8. #8
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    My oil light is flickering and staying on, and oil pressure gauge shows plenty of pressure. Is the black thing next to the oil filter housing the oil pressure warning light sensor. The wires are jammed against the alternator and I wonder if they have split or the insulation has rubbed away.

    Can you show the picture again. It doesn't show up anymore.

    Thanks.


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    Probably just the wire shorting out on the exhaust or chassis somewhere.

  10. #10
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    The sending unit is right next to the A/C and alternator in the front
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