Page 7 of 8 FirstFirst ... 5678 LastLast
Results 61 to 70 of 73

Thread: Bushing problems

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    SugarCreek (Dayton), OH
    Posts
    1,593
    Rep Power
    12

    Default

    delrin will work is 90% the way to spherical bearings so why not do it right

  2. Default

    cost.

    For approx $25.00 and a (fairly) short time at the lathe, I crank out multiple bushings.
    I start with rear toe bushings, and then curiosity starts hitting and for $50.00, and some more time at the lathe, I build bushing for the front a-arms for proof of concept.
    Thinking the front because there will be minimal heat, and I can evaluate what it does to the ride.
    if the ride is acceptable, I crank out the ones for the rear, may use a different material here because of heat.

    Slippery slope case, for about 10% of the cost of the spherical bearings, and some time at the lathe, I get 90% of the advantage of spherical bearings.

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    SugarCreek (Dayton), OH
    Posts
    1,593
    Rep Power
    12

    Default

    WOW, if you can make all 20 Delrin bushing and the sleeves to go over the bolts for $50 i will take 3 sets for sure

  4. Default

    I already have the sleeves. The Poly bushings I bought from you came with a set
    bought 1.25" diameter 36" delrin rod, figure 18 bushings (1.5"*18=27" with 9" of wast), for $29.00

    I need 10 bushings, 8 for the front, 2 for the rear toe links, and I have proof of concept.
    If the ride is acceptable, I can research doing the rear, (I am a little nervous about temps for Delrin in the rear a-arms).
    Last edited by doug_porsche; 09-22-2018 at 09:01 PM.

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    SugarCreek (Dayton), OH
    Posts
    1,593
    Rep Power
    12

    Default

    There are 20 bushings total 8 in the front and 10 in the rear

    The operating temp of Delrin is 247 F so i am pretty sure you are not going to have a problem with the heat. That is not the melting temp it does not melt till 348 F

    You do need shoulders on the bushings if not the a arms will slide forward and aft.

    Do not forget to use bushing grease or the will squeak like a squeaky toy all the time, and you will have to repeat the process about once a year

    Here is the drawing to make it a little easier since i have already done the research

    Drawing in both SAE and MM since it is just a click of a button. I can work in both but when i an machining i can relate to SAE easier
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    Last edited by gafernandez; 09-23-2018 at 06:13 AM.

  6. Default

    Very nice. Thank you!

  7. Default

    Saw your post on Facebook.

    how much for just the install tool?

    assuming it's (way over simplified) a cup, plunger and a bolt/all thread sort of tool also good for extracting these little burgers?

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    SugarCreek (Dayton), OH
    Posts
    1,593
    Rep Power
    12

    Default

    Have not gone that far, will work on that soon

  9. Default

    Update
    I spent some time in front of my brothers lathe and built 20 Delrin/Acetal bushings
    The issue I didnít like in Kens example, using the Rossion Polyurethane bushings, was it looks like the a-arm was not captured between the chassis mounting points.
    This allow the a-arm to not only rotate (good), but shift fore and aft (bad)
    My Mk1 design captures the a-arms with 1.5Ē OD, ĺ ID, 1/8Ē thick oil impregnated bronze bushings/washers to prevent the fore/aft movement
    I ran out of the bronze washer before I ran out of corners, so I only have 3 of the 4 corners installed at this time.
    My butt data logger was telling me that the rear of the car never took a set in the corner like I though it should, so I started by replacing the 12 bushing on the rear first.
    My initial limited street tests are VERY positive!
    I wanted to see what the Delrin bushings would do to the NHV of the car.
    I would say it definitely increased the NHV, but minimally. Think turning the knob from stock, a three, to maybe a 4 or 5. The wife and I did some running around and she didnít notice/object to the difference.
    Score a point for using Delrin for bushings on a Noble.
    I did very conservative testing on the street in cool (approx. 45 deg temps) / lightly damp conditions and the car is dramatically better!
    On my car, the original symptoms was if you went into a constant radius corner (say a traffic circle) you would feel the rear of the car load up and then act almost like the shock absorber bottomed out and you would get snap oversteer. I now half suspect that the suspension was binding and then releasing as I didnít find any of the original rubber suspension bushings that looked obviously bad.
    Now the car linearly shifts the weight, takes a set and goes predictably around the traffic circle!
    My (uncalibrated) butt data logger says I can feel the suspension now has a nice free range of motion whereas the factory setup had an terribly unbalancing plato and then a snap release.

    Replacing the pushing is not terribly difficult.
    It's also not a terribly quick job.

    To get to old bushings out I took a 1 1/4 inch deep socket, a 13/16 socket, a grade 8 nut and bolt and half a dozen washers and uses these as the puller.
    The sockets are Ĺ sockets and the bold is a 9/16 grade 8 bolt.
    You put the open end of the 1 ľ socket against the a-arm, the Ĺ ratchet side (not the bolt side, but the side that goes onto the ratchet. ) of the 13/16 socket over the center bushing (This works to locate the socket in the center of the old bushing).
    Then put the bolt though the middle of everything, add washers and a nut and tighten.
    So far this method had worked on the 16 bushings I have done.
    I used my bench vice to press in the new bushings. With an OD of 1.180 inch, the bushings are too much of a press fit to do by hand, but simple for the vice to handle.

    Lube the inside of the Delrin bushing (yep I know Delrin is self-lubricating, but in my investigation it seems like lubricating them dramatically increases the life time of the Delrin)
    Assemble with the bronze washers on each side, torque. Unlike the factory bushings, you donít need to torque these at ride height!


    My car now handles just like the top gear/5th gear videos say it should handle!
    Attached Images Attached Images    
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #70

    Default

    I just looked and my dark blue bushings with a 92 shore rating are still in great shape.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •