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Thread: Replacing headlight covers

  1. #1

    Default Replacing headlight covers

    It's kinda funny that almost every thread that talks about removing the headlight buckets includes the phrase "never do it again" or something close to that. The thread I was looking for (I think) talked about cutting the covers away from the clam but leaving the buckets in place. Have any of you done that, or can you point me to information on how it was done? My covers now have multiple small cracks

    My thought is this:
    - remove factory covers by cutting them away from the clam and buckets.
    - do necessary body work to clean up the mess I'll probably make
    - get new covers from somewhere (Rossion?)
    - cut flanges off new covers
    - glue new covers in from the top side of the clam using an adhesive that stays flexible and that wipes up more easily than RTV. I don't want to ruin the new covers by getting an unremoveable smear of RTV on them!

    I realize that cutting the covers out in this way is going to require a lot of care and patience, but maybe less than cutting out the buckets?

    Jeff

  2. #2
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    Hoover is the one that removed them in that way. He did post a thread on his site a while back that had some pics.
    Over 3000lbs=boring. 0-60 over 4 seconds=boring. Under 1g=boring. Noble, not boring.

  3. #3
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    Whichever way you go, when we replaced mine some years ago ( from the rear and there are posts about it ) do yourself a favor and install some breather tubes on the buckets behind. We installed (2) breather tubes by using grommets on each side. This stopped any internal condensation issues since then, and also I have had no cracking issues either since then. I firmly believe some of the cracking originates from the heat build up inside the lens area and being no way for air to breathe. I feel this hardens the lenses, and they start cracking. I also installed protective lens films which were pre-cut for the Noble ( mine have a yellow GT type tint but clear is available ) and those too have protected by lenses which still are like new some 4-5 years since replacement. Hope those thoughts help. Wes
    2004 M12 GTO 3R / 630 HP

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    I left the rear of the lights open so I didn't have any bucket at all, I the boxed the wheel arch so that water and mud couldn't get into that area at all... Been through some torrential rain on cold days and never misted up or got and moisture into the light pods.
    saved loads of weight as well and means adjusting the lights is a doddle :-)

  5. #5

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    To be clear, the bucket I'm worried about is the glued in piece, not the screwed in piece.

    Jeff

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    I understood what you meant as did Wes... Hoover carefully cut the Perspex away from the paint side of the clam and then trimmed the cover down and bonded in place.

    he doesn't do that anymore so maybe nip to his forum and ask him why.

  7. #7
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    Edited to add that the light pod consists of 4 parts including the Perspex cover but not including the lights themselves.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by andygtt View Post
    I left the rear of the lights open so I didn't have any bucket at all, I the boxed the wheel arch so that water and mud couldn't get into that area at all... Been through some torrential rain on cold days and never misted up or got and moisture into the light pods.
    saved loads of weight as well and means adjusting the lights is a doddle :-)
    That's a great idea... got any pics of how it looks?

    Yeah, I did it, and had the mechanic cut the RVT and bucket once to replace a bulb... never again.

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