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Thread: Braille B2317 vs. Deka ETX16 battery comparison

  1. #1
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    Default Braille B2317 vs. Deka ETX16 battery comparison

    Some of you may remember I relocated battery to cabin and converted to a Braille B2317 lightweight battery (17lbs.). See thread for details:
    http://www.nobleforums.com/showthrea...ery+relocation

    I did this over xmas break 2011/12. Since then I have generally used a battery tender, but am somewhat inconsistent. Last year I was out of country for 7 1/2 months and had someone start car monthly, and it was on the tender some of that time. When I came back it ran ok, but battery didn't seem to start quite as quickly. I kept forgetting to use tender and eventually had to charge battery a few times. Those of you who went to CMP may have seen Willie F. jump my car while in the pits...

    So I left on vacation for three weeks in June (yes, life is rough) and forgot to plug in tender again. Battery is pretty much toast at this point.

    The Braille battery is pretty expensive. The cheapest I can currently find is through Jegs: http://www.jegs.com/i/Braille+Batter...2317R/10002/-1 at $169.99 including shipping.

    Snooping around internet it appears that the Braille battery may actually be a rebadged Deka battery. See: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-lite...a-battery.html
    I never did find confirmation this is the case, but the price was a lot less so I figured I'd give it a try. The equivalent Deka is the ETX16 which is identical in measurements, weight, post orientation, etc. It is listed as 325CCA, while the Braille is listed at 475CCA.

    The Deka ETX16 can be found for $77.95 plus shipping (cost me $85.51 to door) at: http://www.techbatterysolutions.com/...ry-p/etx16.htm

    Both batteries are sealed Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries. There is an online discussion (breakout from the above 'rebadge' post) that speculates that Braille overestimates CCA (and they way they calculate is different) and that Deka may under report CCA.

    I took a good look at both batteries side by side. The cases are literally identical except for the dates on the markings. See attached pix. As near as I can tell, these are the same batteries with different brand stickers. I installed and car cranks up immediately, just like when I had fresh Braille. I have turned on/off several times, cranked stereo and so far can tell no problems. My non scientific 'seat of pants' eval suggest CCA must not be much different or identical.

    I will give an update in a couple of months to see if I get stranded. Incidentally, MAN is it nice to be driving car again and damn- that thing is fast!!
    Attached Images Attached Images     

  2. #2

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    Thanks for the very informative write up and photos esrandl! It is obvious these are the same batteries just re labeled. I'm looking to change out my Optima Yellow Top as it is about 5 years old and wanted to shave some pounds at the same time. Using the Deka would save about 22 LBS. My only concern was longevity of the battery, however I'm pretty religious about keeping the tender on it. Let us know how it gets along.

  3. #3
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    Mine lasted about 2 years and it was on the tender religiously.

  4. #4
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    FYI, my car is a 2009 and the prior battery (an Optima yellow top) was dead by late 2011. Prior owner did not have a battery tender, so I think even an Optima will die if you don't keep it charged. I suspect the anti theft system must draw a decent amount of juice as battery problems seem to be pretty common and Optima batteries are not crappy batteries.

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    Another thing to check — I haven't had any issues with my Optima yellow top (kept on a trickle charger during the winter only) until this past week. Turns out my power door locks kept clicking while it was parked in my garage, both doors. It continued until the battery was dead, then started again the moment it reached a decent charge level. Flipping the lock/unlock switch on each side got them to stop, but now I'm concerned it could go into this mode again.

  6. #6
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    Just an update:
    It has been cold here lately (28F) and I have been driving car a bit in the last several days. I have let car sit in various lots and there appears to be no problem restarting immediately even when cold. Granted, battery is in cabin so that probably helps too. Have kept car on tender religiously this time. So far the Deka seems to be holding up fine with no problems that I am aware of.

  7. #7
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    Another update:

    Deka battery installed 9/14, still going strong 12/15 and car cranks/starts immediately even when cold. Probably helps that battery is in cabin and probably doesn't get as cold as it would otherwise, but having been occasionally leaving car out in lot all day long with no problems in the evening when cold. I have been much better keeping car on battery tender at home, but as near as I can tell it is not different from Braille otherwise.

  8. #8

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    The Deka ETX16 is a lightweight battery that has a lot cranking power. I had this battery since January, and it was not on a battery tender for about three months when it died. This battery is supposed to be used for a motorcycle, watercraft, and riding lawnmower. You cannot get this battery warrantied if you tell the company you purchased from that it was used on a car.

  9. #9
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    I have run my car on a pair of ballistic LiPo batteries for 2 years now, these little things are 480cca and 9ah and 1.6kgs (6kgs lighter than the Deka ETX16!)... so I had 960cca and 19ah... car was faultless, NEVER had a battery tender or trickle charger and has been left for months without being started. This was great until the paint shop had the car I stressed the batteries were expensive and to not let them go flat otherwise they would kill them, collected the car and the casually told me the batteries had gone flat (took the doors off etc).

    After this the car would always start but would start off slow like the battery was close to dead early turning and after 15mins of crank and rest the batteries spread the charge and cranked fast (no external charger or booster used).... I bench balance charged both the batteries and one had a dead cell that wouldn't take a charge hence the issue with giving cranking power on cold start, the other battery was perfectly balanced despite being only charged on my stock alternator for 2 years and being allowed to go almost fully flat.

    So I have replaced both the batteries with UK sourced version called SHIDO (can't ship them to the UK from the US now) and upped the power slightly to 540cca each but kept the 9ah....
    I kept the batteries in the engine bay rather than loose space in the cabin as I use the car for lots of road trips etc.

    These lithion LiPo batteries are not cheap to buy, but have worked on my car and as long as you don't allow them to go fully flat (true for all batteries it seems) they have proved reliable always having loads of power to start the car even when spending 5-15mins trying to crank it in bursts (as I did when one had died).

    I have spend considerably more in other places trying to shed less weight than the genuine 12kgs I have saved running these batteries
    Might even invest in a trickle charger / conditioner one day lol

  10. #10
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    Long term update on Deka battery:

    My car has generally been on a tender most of the time when parked. Occasionally I leave it off the tender for a week or more and recently had problems starting. Hooking back up to tender it starts, but obviously slower than it should. I am headed to CMP this coming month and don't want to have any issues, so I am replacing battery. I suspect if I kept on tender and weather warms, I probably could make it through end of summer on battery. Anyways, battery lasted from 9/14 to 3/18 and perhaps could have gone a hair longer.

    Cost to replace is essentially same as before. I found the same seller (High Tech battery solutions) listed in original post now sells this battery on Ebay. I was actually able to get it for $84 to include shipping, so cost was slightly less than before

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