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Thread: Brake pad install

  1. #1
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    Default Brake pad install

    Was cleaning the front suspension on Rossion this weekend (it was rainy..) and pulled the pads. It occurred to me there was no "Brake pad install" thread that I had seen, searched and can't find one. So if anyone doesn't know how to change pads (it is so easy can be done at track in minutes), here goes:

    There are two retaining pins in trailing side of caliper, knock them out from the outside to the inside using a small punch.

    Anti-squeal spring will come off.

    I use a pry bar to separate pads off rotor (not prying rotor- just pad to pad pushing them wider apart in the back). You could also use a c-clamp, the pry bar is just really quick.

    Pads should slide right out the back with a little pulling.

    Reinstall in reverse. Anti- squeal spring arrow goes toward rotation. Some pad sets come with new retaining pins but I have not seen any issue reusing the old ones. You will need to seat the pins all the way in with a light tap using the punch. I have never used anti-squeal grease or adhesive as I don't have brake squeal issues with either Pagid or AP pads. The pix shown are from the left front except the reinstall is from right front so don't get confused on pin direction for reinstall. Enjoy!
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    Last edited by esrandl; 01-12-2015 at 06:52 PM. Reason: typos

  2. #2
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    Default

    Very nice, thanks!

  3. #3
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    Default

    Great info, thanks for posting!
    Wilson

    " For power, buy the Corvette.
    For weight, buy the Exige.
    For handling, buy the GT3.
    If you are looking for all three, buy the Noble. "

    By Godzilla...

  4. #4
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    Very nice. It should be noted that if the pads you're removing are low, you should crack the master cylinder cap and place some towels around the opening to catch any fluid that comes out when you depress the pistons to fit meatier pads back in.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by esrandl View Post
    Was cleaning the front suspension on Rossion this weekend (it was rainy..) and pulled the pads. It occurred to me there was no "Brake pad install" thread that I had seen, searched and can't find one. So if anyone doesn't know how to change pads (it is so easy can be done at track in minutes), here goes:

    There are two retaining pins in trailing side of caliper, knock them out from the outside to the inside using a small punch.

    Anti-squeal spring will come off.

    I use a pry bar to separate pads off rotor (not prying rotor- just pad to pad pushing them wider apart in the back). You could also use a c-clamp, the pry bar is just really quick.

    Pads should slide right out the back with a little pulling.

    Reinstall in reverse. Anti- squeal spring arrow goes toward rotation. Some pad sets come with new retaining pins but I have not seen any issue reusing the old ones. You will need to seat the pins all the way in with a light tap using the punch. I have never used anti-squeal grease or adhesive as I don't have brake squeal issues with either Pagid or AP pads. The pix shown are from the left front except the reinstall is from right front so don't get confused on pin direction for reinstall. Enjoy!
    My question would be: what pads (brands/model #) fit?
    Thanks!

  6. #6
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    AP, Ferodo, cobalt, hawk, carbotect, etc, etc

  7. #7
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    Default

    How about power bleeding? Is there a correct order? (My car does not have abs).

  8. #8
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    If you're talking about pressurized bleeder systems (attaches to resevoir to pressurize) that is a way to ensure not sucking air in through various seals using a vacuum bleeder. I have tried that in the past.. but the problem is it is super easy to over bleed and not realize you just pushed air into system from top side by depleting resevoir. I just vacuum bleed or go old school with someone pressing down on brake pedal. Theoretically you start with the brakes in the rear and clear the resevoir of any remnants of old fluid before switching to fronts. This makes sure the fronts don't have any remnants of old fluid. It probably doesn't really matter unless you are racing and then you need the highest temp fluid you can find.

  9. #9
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    I figured: the standard is to work from the longest line backwards to closest wheel/shortest line from reservoir - unless ABS, then the rules can be most anything. Thanks!

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