Page 2 of 8 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 71

Thread: Honda Powered Build Thread - K24 / TSX

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    322
    Rep Power
    4

    Default

    So much room for activities!

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    SugarCreek (Dayton), OH
    Posts
    1,485
    Rep Power
    10

    Default

    Looks like there is but you run out of real estate quickly.That such a nice clean conversion have fun. If you need any help feel free to ask we have jumped throw a lot of hops on the V8 at this point

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    274
    Rep Power
    4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gafernandez View Post
    Looks like there is but you run out of real estate quickly.That such a nice clean conversion have fun. If you need any help feel free to ask we have jumped throw a lot of hops on the V8 at this point
    Thanks for your support, especially since we're on the same mission, just went different routes


    so, I'm nearly finished with all my wiring, still got to hook up a few things:
    - Alternator warning light
    - Reverse switch/light
    - AC clutch

    Without a lot of the grounds attached, I was able to turn the key and power up the ECU. I am also able to engage the starter with the key, which is a nice feeling after tearing apart a lot of wiring and putting it back together.

    Currently only using the AC Relay and the Starter relay from the Noble, as well as all the floorboard relays from the Noble. For the Main and Fuel pump, I'm using Honda relays (they are smaller). Also using a Honda relay for the O2 sensor.

    For all of the additional wires I had to add, I used a delphi circular plug that mounts to the firewall and allows for a disconnect between the cabin and engine bay. I wanted to get all the wires connected, get the engine running, then finish the wiring once I knew everything worked correctly.


    Getting closer.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    274
    Rep Power
    4

    Default

    So, engine is in! Mounts were poorly welded so I could get a final positioning of the drivetrain. This allows the plethora of little things to proceed, such as oil line routing, vacuum line routing, placement of the turbo, wiring routing, dirveaxle measurement, etc, etc. I was tempted to try to fire it up, but resisted the urge.


    Some photos of how close everything is:

    Water Pump pulley to right side suspension upright. That's about 0.5".



    Not a great photo, but this is the oil pan space between the pan and the removable oil pan bar. That's 1.5"




    TONS of space here. No longer need to remove accessories to pull the engine. This will reduce engine out process to about 3-4hrs vs. the 6-8hrs it is with the Ford. Also, all that room for placement of luggage!


    Spacing between the gearbox and the left side cross bar (oftentimes removed for easier clutch service). It's about an 1" of space there.



    Spacing between the rear of the gearbox to the rear bar that supports the IC box. I destroyed the heat tape on the rear bar. Getting everything fitted. This is about 0.5" of room.



    The Ford engine requires at LEAST 29" of height in the chassis. That's from bottom of the oil pan to the top of the intake manifold. Add a few inches for breathing room, and you're at around 31".
    The top of the valve cover on the Honda to the bottom chassis bar is 25.5".

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    72
    Rep Power
    4

    Default

    I see you like the Hondabond. I always wondered if there are any other products that are similiar. I need to do a 3rd gear synchro in my B18C1.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    274
    Rep Power
    4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ragtop76 View Post
    I see you like the Hondabond. I always wondered if there are any other products that are similiar. I need to do a 3rd gear synchro in my B18C1.
    Hah, I noticed that when I got the gearbox... this was a rebuilt box by Gear Driven. I'll know how well he did here in a few weeks.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    322
    Rep Power
    4

    Default

    Jeez, looks like you could fit a dead bo - I mean bags in the space in front of the engine!

    A good alternative to Hondabond is Toyota FIPG (form in place gasket) for whoever asked

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    274
    Rep Power
    4

    Default

    Good progress this past weekend.

    Managed to get all the engine mounts finalized. I'll have a V3 out of CNC or whatever in the future...but for now, it's in.

    I redid the wiring. Instead of running the wiring loom thru the engine bay like Noble did, I ended up pushing it thru the passenger cabin at the tunnel. I used another circular connector to connect all of the Noble chassis wiring (ie. radiator fan relay, ignition signal, starter signal, etc) and mounted it in the same spot as the removable panel for accessing the e-brake adjuster.

    Also replaced all of the Noble engine bay relays with Honda micro relays, and kept those behind the passenger seat as well.

    The only wires I have left to make is the starter/alternator ends for the battery, wire up the boost controller to the ECU, and run a wire from the VTEC Pressure switch to the AC compressor to engage the clutch. I have a MIL that I need to figure out where to put. After redoing my dash panel, I'm a little reluctant to drill another hole for a light.

    Best thing, the shifter is finalized. Honda gearboxes are some of the best feeling shifters ever, and it's glorious being able to row thru the gears with no slop, or confusion! No more J motions to find reverse... Added benefit with the K-tuned shifter, it's highly adjustable. You can adjust the throws, how tall you want the shift knob, how far you want it from the dash panel, etc, etc.

    Driveaxles are on order, who knows when I'll get them though. Then begins the next fun part of the build.... the turbo manifold. I've considered just putting a simple/cheap header on the engine and driving it around to make sure everything works before I add the turbo. But, not sure I want to drive the car around without any power. The desire to want to drive it is eating at me though :/

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    SugarCreek (Dayton), OH
    Posts
    1,485
    Rep Power
    10

    Default

    wow just saw close the motor fits. What are you going do with all that extra space.

    I know the feeling tight but it fits

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    274
    Rep Power
    4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gafernandez View Post
    wow just saw close the motor fits. What are you going do with all that extra space.

    I know the feeling tight but it fits
    Maybe add a gym... Realistically, if I wanted to go REALLY crazy, I could move the firewall back 6-8", giving me more space inside the cabin behind the seats. At that point, I could have proper storage bins... but, that's going to a point of no return. Right now, everything I have done is reversible where I could put the Pherd V6 back in, just changing a few wires.


    The drivetrain sits in a little tight only because I wanted to keep the factory water pump. There are electric water pump kits that removes the water pump pulley that would allow me to move the engine closer to the right side of the engine bay. Downside, would need to order another set of driveaxles.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •