I got with the engine builder
For my new engine it is closed deck
He removed OEM sleeve and milled out aluminum to fit large sleeves.
Mark asked me to post on his behalf. I am the one who completed all of the work on Mark's M12. I had it on the dyno earlier this week and wanted to share some progress photos. Im the one who completed all of the mechanical work and the wiring/startup/tune. The only thing I didn't do was the exhaust and misc fab work. I will be glad to answer any question you guys may have. I will post more pics later, this is just what I have available.
Here is some of the work that has been completed so far.
Bore 3.535" with 3.38" stroke
Diamond pistons 8.5:1 cr ceramic /moly
K1 H beam forged rods arp 2000
CNC heads Manley Inconel valves 1mm+
ARP head studs & ARP main studs
Beehive springs 270#
Stage 2 billet custom oil pump
12 row Earls oil cooler
Earls Billet thermostat 170°
Remote oil filter for HP-1/PH8 oil filter
Pure Power Oil Filter
all new -10AN oil lines
all new turbo oil feed and drain plumbing, -3 PTFE feed with -10 return
we converted the whole fuel system to AN, welded -10AN feed and -6AN return to the fuel tank, and a -8AN fitting to the fuel rail.
Bosch Motorsports 044 fuel pump
100 micron Pre pump filter
10 Micron post pump filter
Fuel Lab fuel pressure regulator
Flex content sensor
all new Earls PTFE fuel lines
Comp Turbo CT2X Billet CHRA and compressor wheel (GT2871R equivalent)
full 3" turbo back exhaust made of 304 Stainless Steel, back purged, no cats.
dual 3'' Coast fab 304SS rebuildable mufflers
AEM Infinity 708
Drive By wire conversion
Dual flat response knock sensors
Individual bank boost control
Pre and post intercooler temps
Multi position Boost/Valet switch
boost by Position Switch/Throttle/Flex content
AEMNet CAN display gauge
GuldstrandPRO Motorsports engine loom
UK Spec Raychem DR-25
All molded and epoxy filled boots
M22759/32 Tefzel wire
100% concentrically twisted
ECU mounted in the cabin
Dual firewall connectors
all factory gauges work and coolant temp gauge doubles as a check engine light
Notable chassis upgrades:
Removable driver side chassis brace for trans removal
Ron Davis radiator with revised mounting to remove the stress from the radiator
Aluminum Coolant tank
New fuel pump wiring
Im not sure why some of the pics came in small. I will try to take some more detailed shots this next week. We had some breakup on the dyno and had to source some better and colder plugs. once we got those in we were able to run the 14psi. It was the end of the day so we had to stop there. next week we are hoping to see 500whp. Then Mark will put some miles on it before we dyno with E85.
EB Turbo (Cody)
Looks like you really want the steering wheel pointed straight when the car hits 3500 RPM.
What are your thoughts on the AEM ECU now that you have the car running?
I really like it. I use them quite often. I've been using them for quite some time. I've put them in a fair amount of cars too, 2 Rotor/3rotor RX7, 2.7/3.0 + a GT2 Swap in a 911 Porsche, 69' Camaro, some LS applications, BMWs, Hyundai 2.7l I4 + 3.8l V6, Ecoboost mustangs... they can do quite a lot. The fuel model works really well. The Duratec V6 is quite easy compared to some other custom applications I've worked with. The way I did the DBW made the conversion really easy. We still have plans for traction control but didn't want to overwhelm this project too much right now. Most of the wiring is in place, we just need to mount some speed sensors.
You can get a Infinity 506 to go in a Noble pretty easy. If I can source an ECU header I can make a PnP. If not a repin would be too hard. Or if you want to add a fair amount a new harness is pretty easy too. Is it common for Noble owners to remove the MBE?
Not yet, but...
Originally Posted by EB Turbo
The ECU is password protected, and the ECU is no longer in production. I dont know what features it has as I dont have the password.
Frustrating that the pimply faced kid down the street can get his WRX tuned for this altitude (I live at 5500 ft elevation and be at 10,000ft in 30-45 min) at a handful of shops within a 30 min drive and I have two or three people in this country that can do mine, and that requires me taking the ecu out, and sending it to them. And if the tune bricks the ecu...
I think if there were a cost effective solution, it would be more common to swap them out.
Last edited by doug_porsche; 11-25-2016 at 10:10 PM.
What do you consider "cost effective"?
Originally Posted by doug_porsche
I have converted a couple of nobles to the Ford ecu and they run great, no altitude problems
I'd love to continue this conversation. I'd prefer if we moved it to a new thread. I do to want to hijack Marks thread.