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Thread: Fuel Lines

  1. #11

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    EB! Thanks, that is important info to have. Nomenclature: you wrote -10 - 1/2". Isnt -10an 10/16"? Is the 1/2" the ID?

    Also, you mention not using clamps with SS braided line. Does the same apply for the PTFE? Im currently looking at replacing some of the SS line with PTFE. Would prefer to not have to drop the fuel tank and get into modifying it...
    Last edited by jpwden; 12-23-2016 at 02:12 PM.

  2. #12

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    I am sorry, it is -6 AN is 3/8'', -8 AN is 1/2'' and -10 AN is 5/8''.

    The noble uses a rubber hose with a SS braid over it. You can get away with clamping this type of hose but with the wrong type of clamp the stainless braid can interfere with a proper seal. If you plan on switching to a proper stainless braided line or PTFE You need to use the proper fittings. Especially with PTFE. The current fittings on the market are either a high pressure crimp fitting or use a ferrule.

    pulling the tank and fuel rail are not hard, just a little time consuming.

    EB Turbo

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
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    Sorry to add to an old post, but my question somewhat relates to the original content. One of my fuel lines has sprung a leak. It is indeed the rubber hose between the fuel pump and the T connector underneath the coolant reservoir. Never having worked on fuel lines before, how are these connectors detached from a) the fitting coming off the fuel pump (at blue fitting) and b) the T connector? There is one other very short rubber line coming off the T that also looks very suspect. Is it possible to change these two lines with SS braided ones without changing the existing fittings? As these cars get on up there in years (close to 15 years old at this point) does it make sense to prophylactically replace the rubber fuel and coolant lines? Seems that just the ravages to time causes the rubber to deteriorate as it's certainly not due to overuse with only a few thousand miles on the car. Right now just trying to make the car reliably streetable with the occasional autocross (2-3/season).



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  4. #14
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    Oct 2020
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    Broomfield, CO
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    Gentlemen,
    My fuel pump runs all the time after start. Build manual sez it should stop.
    I'm guessing dirty filter or failing pump or both?
    How hard to get into tha space? I have ambitions to add more radiators there.
    Always wanted a car with functional scoops!

  5. Default

    I am 99% sure, after the motor is running, the fuel pump will run.
    When you first put the key in and turn it to on, but with the motor off, the pump should run for a handful of seconds and then shut off.
    the fuel filter is behind the driver, in front of the rear wheel.
    again, handful of Philips screws and you are there.

  6. #16
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    Oct 2020
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    Broomfield, CO
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    Thanks, I am going to get in there and put (more?) rubber sound isolation around it followed by a sound deadened shroud.
    First salvo in my war against cabin noise.
    Btw way, I was looking to find the low schrader for the A/C. A blue cap says HIGH on the passenger side inboard of the front inner fender. The cap is blue which I believe is non -standerd( High should be red??
    Build manual is not specific.
    Is fuel pump inside the scoop or only filter?
    Michael

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    The pump and filter are both inside the scoop compartment. You need to remove the rear wheel if you want to work on that space, but not required to just look in there. And yes, the pump should run while the engine is running.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
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    Broomfield, CO
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    Thank you

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