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Thread: Clutch Problems

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    Here is a pic after I removed the cross member on the DRIVERS side. The transaxle is right there, but it does not slide out easily. Still wants to hit the rear frame and its a B!tch. Looks like you need to just get a new master cylinder and flush your system. Maybe no need for clutch removal. I ended up re-welding my crossmember in. Never coming out the side again!Name:  Screen Shot 2017-05-06 at 1.59.46 PM.jpg
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  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Rep Power


    Quote Originally Posted by jpwden View Post
    There is a diagonal beam on the passenger side, a little rear of the engine that has been sawed out at some point and reattached with some nuts and bolts. Is this the beam in question?
    If you mean the bar on the bottom of the chassis, below the engine on the right side of the car, then that's the wrong bar. That bar is so that you can remove the oil pan without having to remove the engine.

    See this thread for some info on the removable bar, along with pictures:

    There's also a bunch of info about clutch issues and diagnosis in this forum - a bit of searching should find some helpful stuff...

    Good luck with your car!
    Last edited by Jimbo; 05-06-2017 at 12:34 PM.

  3. #13


    If referencing this, no. This is the crossbeam for removing the oil pan and exhaust.

    The bar for "easier" removal of the gearbox, would be on the left side (driver's side) of the engine bay. The metal inner fender lining covers it, the ebrake cable is zip-tied to it, and it goes from the bottom of the chassis near the fuel cell, to the top of the chassis near the removal cross brace that goes over the gearbox.

    Basically, this bar in the middle (not removable in this shot).

    There was a discussion about it's use. Cutting and rewelding weakens the chassis. Cutting and rebolting definitely weakens the chassis. AND, it doesn't save THAT much time. It seemed to only save time for mechanics who were paid by the hour.

  4. #14


    Quote Originally Posted by Driven View Post
    It seemed to only save time for mechanics who were paid by the hour.
    Yes! But you're not supposed to say that out loud!

    I always find useful other things to do while the engine is out of the car. It really is no big deal for one guy to pull the engine.

    Noble parts for sale, see my Noble website:

  5. #15


    Engine came out weekend before last, and went back in last night with a new clutch and flywheel. Car started almost instantly, and so far the only problem was a loose coolant line that was easily tightened. Its rare Ive had a startup go that smooth following an engine drop.

    Turns out the problem was not the clutch at all--in fact, both the clutch/pressure plate and flywheel were in fantastic shape wit a lot of life left (*hint hint*, so Im considering selling it if anyone wants it). Problem was a faulty throw out bearing...A LOOOOOT of work to replace a stupid $50 part. But since I had already purchased the new upgraded clutch, the factory unit came out and the new clutch went in. Ill be providing some kind of write-up on the work that was done--lots of important details to get out to everyone that doesnt seem to be up on the forum anywhere...

    Also, thanks to Calvin for letting me use your lift and garage for the last couple weeks, and for lending far more than just a helping hand in doing the work. We decided were going to make this an every-other-month type of exercise so our Noble wrenching skills stay nice and sharp.
    Last edited by jpwden; 05-22-2017 at 01:30 PM.

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    Is it a hydraulic throw out bearing (a line goes from the clutch master cylinder directly to it and it is what disengages the clutch?)?

  7. #17


    It is hydraulically actuated. If you peer down at your transmission below all the coolant lines towards the front top part of the transmission as the bell housing begins to slope upwards towards the engine, you can see the slave cylinder clipped in, and associated hydraulic line. The slave clips directly into the throw-out bearing assembly.

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