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Thread: Clutch Problems

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    Denver, CO
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    Default Clutch Problems

    Had some clutch issues on track today: Occasionally, the clutch would stick abut half way down as I pressed it--like it would just hit a wall half way to the floor. It would stick only momentarily and then release, and I could get it into gear. At one point, it stuck half way and I couldnt get it to go any farther. Had to pull off track and eventually was able to get it back into gear to drive home. It worked ok on the highway, but was very tempermental on track.

    Talking to Willy, it sounds like the springs on the factory clutches wear out and can make the pedal stick as I was experiencing. Gonna tear it apart, and in case thats the cause, I have new clutch/pressure plate, flywheel, to bearing, and master cyl on order as I have 3 days at Utah Motorsports in 2 weeks. My questions for you guys:

    1. Has anyone else here experienced this type of issue? What was required to fix it and how hard was the work?

    2. Can anyone give a detailed set of instructions for replacing the clutch and flywheel? Or a good link on the net? Theres not much info in the build manual. im pretty competent with a wrench and will have the car on a shop lift, and help of 1 or 2 other competent guys. But it would be *very* nice to have some steps/instructions on best way to perform the clutch/flywheel replacement...

    Thanks in advance!
    Josh

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
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    Default

    Sorry about the issues...


    To do a clutch, if you have the removable chassis brace for the gearbox, you can just remove the gearbox.
    If you don't, you need to yank the entire drivetrain.

    To replace the clutch/pp/flywheel, it's pretty standard affair. The only unusual thing is the throw out bearing is bolted to the gearbox. Since you're replacing everything, you can just use an impact on the pressure plate and flywheel for removal, since you won't be reusing.

    I'd also recommend new flywheel and pressure plate bolts.

    Grease up the input shaft before trying to install back onto the engine. It'll help locate the input into the clutch.
    Also grease up the TOB where it touches the pressure plate and on the inside where it slides on the input shaft. Don't over do it though.

    Otherwise, good luck. It took me 10hrs to pull the drivetrain the first time... so, plan a solid weekend to do it.

  3. #3

    Default

    Sorry to hear about your problems. Before you pull your engine, make sure your master cylinder isn't causing your problems. That is much easier to replace! I have pulled my tranny from the side (by removing the crossmember) and pulled my engine/tranny from the top. I found it much easier to remove the entire engine. While it may be more steps, each step is MUCH easier and you are less likely to curse, destroy your clutch while trying to reallgn and reassemble. Also less likely to hack up your chassis. Here is a post of some details when I pulled my engine. http://www.nobleforums.com/showthrea...bos&highlight=
    Make sure you pull the battery out for the job. Good luck!

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Darn. You left earl. Missed seeing the F5000 Mclaren run.
    not 100% sure it was running correctly, but still fun to watch.
    It was also fun watching the hadfull of Porsche GT4 run. They look good.
    Let me know if you want help with the clutch.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
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    That sucks Josh. I almost came out today with my new trailer, but still need a little more tuning. I had my clutch not work when I first got the car and was driving with Cecil. It wouldn't fully depress, limped into the hot pits and popped it into neutral. Looked down in the footwell, the little metal angel piece that is glued next to the footrest and clutch came unglued and fell behind the clutch petal not allowing it to be fully pushed in. Boy was I relieved, after thinking I blew something. I would say check this, but your clutch is somewhat working. I wish it was as easy a fix as mine. Hopefully you have the removable side support or else it's removing the whole engine.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    Ken!
    After I saw your post, I went out to check mine. it is in place, but looking at the plunger coming off the clutch pedal, I noticed there was a drip of fluid, and it doesnt look particularly clean. Prtty sludgy looking.

    Im not sure what to make of this. Could it be that my master cylinder went out, and thats the reason Im noticing these problems? Im guessing is that there should not be a leak like that, albeit small...Could the issue be the master entirely, or is it possible Im experiencing the spring issue as well? Is it possible this leak under there is a direct result of a spring catching? See attached pic...
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  7. #7
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    How do you tell if you have the removable member? It sounds like the biggest decision we have to make first is whether to pull the engine or just the tranny. It also sounds like if the member is not removable on Josh's car that kind of makes up our mind for us.
    --Calvin

  8. #8
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    There is a diagonal beam on the passenger side, a little rear of the engine that has been sawed out at some point and reattached with some nuts and bolts. Is this the beam in question? It seems like, given the orientation of the tranny, that we would be talking about something different...What should I be looking for?

  9. #9
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    I've got some running to do this am. I'll take a picture of mine to compare, but it sounds like you have the removable brace. That would be good news.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
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    Take a picture and send to Willy.

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