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  1. #1
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    Default Gas Gauge Sender

    Hello to all, I am a new owner of an M400 (NUS 0165). Something I have wanted for several years and finally made it happen. Anyway, I should probably have done a better job of inspecting as I found out three things on my drive back home to Florida:


    1. Leaking/blown exhaust gaskets
    2. A/C refrigerant leak (making for a very hot drive), and
    3. Gas gauge not working.


    Looks like an engine out repair which will add value to the car lol. After all that, does anyone know a source for the gas gauge sender unit? Seems like Rossion does not have, so potentially have to go to Lotus in the UK?? If anyone has a better idea, would love to hear it.

    I hope this is OK for a first post; I am sure you will indicate if not. Also, if anyone is also resident in SW Florida (I am in Sarasota), please let me know.

    Richard

  2. #2
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    Congrats on your new purchase!

    1. Exhaust gaskets aren't an engine out ordeal, but your knuckles will hate you.
    2. Downside, the AC in a Noble is just above terrible for anyone in a properly hot climate (or worst, hot and humid). It's not Lotus bad, but it's damn near. The AC ports are under the front clam. One near the pass. wheel well, the other is under the drip tray that covers the brake and clutch reservoirs.
    3. This might simply be a loosen connection. The fuel sender is bolted to the top of the tank under the parcel shelf. There are two spade type connections, feel to see if those have disconnected. If they are on there, then you could try a multimeter to determine if it's working before replacing. Sometimes, they just get stuck. Fuel tank is removed via the bottom of the car. If you do that, it's best to change the hose barbs to AN fittings. Helps clean things up, from a hose connection perspective.

    The worst part about removing the engine is unbolting the forward turbo and hardware, as well as the exhaust that connects to it. Once you pull the intercooler and remove the clam, the rear turbo is a cake walk. But, removing the drivetrain does allow you to take care of a lot of little things that'll make the car run and look better.

    Good luck

  3. #3
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    Many thanks Driven!

    TBH I am more of a driver than a mechanic though I do work the electrics on my LBC's (little British cars), so the engine out option was provided to me by the local Ford dealer. Do you think they are pulling the proverbial wool over my eyes or, as they said, would it be easier to replace the gaskets if the engine was out? The O ring failure which they believe is the cause of the refrigerant leak, was close to the gaskets, another reason why they said engine out could be the best option. They did try out the sender with a multi-meter, and deduced that was the issue.

    If they were to correct these items, how many hours do you estimate for engine out (then, later, in)? What are the "lot of little things" to which you refer?

    Thanks again

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Superbe View Post
    Many thanks Driven!

    TBH I am more of a driver than a mechanic though I do work the electrics on my LBC's (little British cars), so the engine out option was provided to me by the local Ford dealer. Do you think they are pulling the proverbial wool over my eyes or, as they said, would it be easier to replace the gaskets if the engine was out? The O ring failure which they believe is the cause of the refrigerant leak, was close to the gaskets, another reason why they said engine out could be the best option. They did try out the sender with a multi-meter, and deduced that was the issue.

    If they were to correct these items, how many hours do you estimate for engine out (then, later, in)? What are the "lot of little things" to which you refer?

    Thanks again
    Really depends on the tech who is working on the car and what they want to charge you for hours. The O-ring is pretty easy to get to, since the lines can be removed from the AC compressor from below the car once they remove the belly pan.

    Thing is, the turbos and AC compressor would be removed during an engine out procedure. Removing the manifolds wouldn't be much more effort with the engine in.
    The fuel sender would likely need the fuel tank to be dropped -- not sure if you can replace the sender with it in. The fuel tank can be removed without pulling the drivetrain, although it's tight.

    Lots of little things:
    - Replacing turbo hardware and gaskets
    - Checking if alternator wire mod has been done, and doing that fix if it hasn't
    - Upgrading fuel pump wire, if it hasn't been done
    - Replace various gaskets on the engine
    - Adding track oil pan if it doesn't have it
    - Clean the chassis, repair any missing heat shielding
    - Reroute lines/hoses if they weren't routed properly during installation

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