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Thread: Gauge panel removal and center console wiring

  1. #11
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    So I am guessing this is not easy to access? I would have to have the car on a lift and access the tunnel from below. Or is there an easier way?

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Natedogwv1 View Post
    So I am guessing this is not easy to access? I would have to have the car on a lift and access the tunnel from below. Or is there an easier way?
    You'll want to access the tunnel from below. It's not fun the first time. Tons of rivets to drill out and, if memory serves (this was 7 years ago), the belly pan is stuck to the frame with a sturdy sealant. I recall laying on my back under the car and using a hammer and a putty scraper to slice through the sealant.

    FWIW, I cut the belly pan so I could remove just the bits that close off the tunnel.

    -------------------------
    Jeff
    Noble parts for sale, see my Noble website: http://Noblecars.org

  3. #13
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    To get to the heater valve on a Noble, you have to come up from below the car. No need to drill any rivets or remove the floor pan. Just unscrew the forward vent panel and reach inside. It’s easier if the car is up on a lift, but it can be done with the car on jack stands.

    btw, you guys do realize that the gauge panel, hvac controls, and center console are very different between a Noble and a Rossion, don’t you? I think the OP has a Rossion - the electrical schematics are really not applicable to the Nobles...just like all the posts about removing the center console panel have nothing at all to do with the Rossion...

  4. #14
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    Awesome thanks for the info. This helps out a lot now I just gotta find someone to let me use a lift.

  5. #15

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    A floor jack and 4 jack stands are enough. Scroll up to the pic of the bottom of my car and you'll see how much room there is. I use the rear jacking point to raise first one side of the car, then the other.

    Yeah, a lift is nice, but not essential.
    -------------------------
    Jeff
    Noble parts for sale, see my Noble website: http://Noblecars.org

  6. #16
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    Name:  DC4D05D3-8334-43F6-86A4-B08E5FD66CD7.jpg
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Size:  478.4 KBSo I just removed the bottom panels under the car to find out why my heater doesn’t work and the valve appears to have been bypassed.the cable was also removed from the valve. I tried actuating the cable that controls the valve it seems to work. Tried to actuate the valve and had no luck. With the cable removed from the valve the control knob still will not turn. So I think I am in need of the valve and the controls. Any suggestion on where to get these parts in the U.S.? Also appears to be what looks like a drain line of some sort coming from the front of the vehicle and mine was just laying in the opening and what looks like a clear hose going into a black hose. Someone else posted a better pic of it in the first page of post. Mine is unable to reconnect to the front because of a broken piece of plastic that it used to connect to. Is this a needed part and should I try to find a way to reconnect.

  7. #17

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    great pics natedawg, I am about to undergo the same endeavor... do you know how to remove the valve? looks like it is riveted in place?

  8. #18
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    I am having the same problem. Where can you find replacement parts?

  9. #19

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    I'm guessing the heater control valve is a ford part.

    I've found similar looking valves, but not sure if it's the same:
    https://www.finditparts.com/products...oaAsC1EALw_wcB


    I was going to pull my valve out since I'm toying with dumb ideas over the winter -- one of which is to change out the heater controls to controls that don't use cables.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sneetch1957 View Post
    I am having the same problem. Where can you find replacement parts?
    im replacing the heater control valve on my Rossion. The main body of the valve is the same part for noble and Rossion, just the mounting bracket is different to allow the noble setup to be cable Operated, the Rossion has an electronic solenoid to operate the valve.

    you have to drill or grind two rivets to get the old valve out. NOW, THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT TO ROSSION OWNERS. The plastic part on the solenoid that operates the valve has the melting point of candle wax.
    How do I know? When drilling the rivets, the bit got very hot, heat transferred through the mounting bracket to the little plastic piece which melted and fell on my hand (oooh, my hand is on fire), so now I have to figure something out for that too. Save yourself some heartache and be very careful how you get the rivets out.

    regardng the replacement part for the valve, the link from driven looks correct. I ended up ordering one from south west lotus center, cost was $90. I also found one online from China for $20, they both ended up being the same part. Which I probably won’t use anyway, since thinking of going with a thermotion control valve which is plastic and won’t corrode.

    jack

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