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Thread: Intercooler relocation

  1. #1
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    Default Intercooler relocation

    Recently I finished relocating the intercooler on my Rossion and I thought some of you may be interested. As you know, the IC on Rossions hangs off the engine end and is being fed cold air passively by a pair of 4" ducts through the fancy CF bodywork over the wheels. This is the original configuration (the front part of the cover houses the air filters, more on those later):



    The goals of this project were:
    1. Move the weight from the back of the car to improve the weight distribution
    2. Shorten the charge air ducting to reduce the turbo lag
    3. Improve the IC heat management to reduce the intake temperature
    4. Make all changes reversible just in case it doesn't work


    Work started with a lot of thinking/beer drinking and then some CAD sketches. Here you can see the new position as compared to the old layout (gray parts) from the side:

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    and the new position in 3D:

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    As you can see, the plan was to move the IC where the air intake box sits now, add an upper intake box (green part) that will sit just below the clamshell and pull the air through the lower exhaust box (pink part). The air will be fed from the existing side ducting into the intake box and pulled through by the pair of fans (yellow).
    The concern with this solution was moving the IC right above the rear turbo but the hope is that there will be enough heat shielding, air gap created by the exhaust box and enough air pulled through to isolate the IC from the heat.
    I considered feeding the air from the clam openings but the air feeds from the side pods were just too tempting...

    Obviously, this meant I had to relocate the air intakes. Those ended up in the side pods but that's another story. After figuring out the position of the IC in more details, couple of new brackets were made to hold it in place (one side only shown).

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    here's how close the IC is to the turbo

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    Then the intake box fabrication began:
    Wooden plug first...

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    ...test fit...

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    ...then the mold (after HOURS of polishing!)...

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    ...and then (after couple of attempts) lay up and vacuum bagging...

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    ...out comes shiny new CF box!

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    Clean up, install flanges for the air intakes and mounting hardware...

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    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by phun-ky; 01-06-2020 at 08:01 PM.

  2. #2
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    Due to the proximity to the turbo, the exhaust box is made from 1/8" aluminum...

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    ...and covered in heat shield blanket.

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    Here's the whole assembly with fans with connectors and related electronics that eventually become hidden by the "eyebrow" above the fans.

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  3. #3
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    You may have noticed that the BOV had to be relocated to accommodate the new position of the IC. BOV now sticks out of the side of the IC.
    That wasn't the only change though. Because of the new location of the IC, the front turbo charge pipe as well as the engine intake are 11'' shorter and the rear turbo pipes have a different configuration. Those had to be fabricated again. And in the process of doing so, I had to also change the outlet of the IC to create a smooth transition to the intake tube. Here's the final fitment:

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    Because of the changes to the IC outlet, it was not possible to achieve my last goal of keeping everything reversible to the original setup. Besides the MAF sensor had to be re-calibrated for the new intake tube.
    Here's a look from the back of the car (the orange ducts were eventually replaced with the black ones):

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  4. #4
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    The car is now with Hoover for the Dyno tuning. It looks like I won't get more power out of the upgrade as the MAF is maxed out . But that was not the goal of the project anyway.
    Also the IC heat soak seems to be an issue (as expected). It may be the trigger temperature for the fans is currently set too high, fans don't pull enough air through or there is more heat insulation needed.

    I'll post some updates later...

  5. Default

    I like the workmanship!
    Sorry it didn't solve all the problems, but dang...
    Was fun trying wasn't it!

  6. #6
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    Yup, it was fun trying for sure! I learned a lot and that counts

    Here's the before (blue) and after (red)

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    There is an improvement in the torque and HP in the lower RPM range (shorter pipes?). However I lost about 12HP at the top end (MAF maxing out supposedly). I also don't like the fact the dip at 4400RPM got more pronounced with the new setup...

  7. #7

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    nicely done! I wish I had the patience and knowledge to build molds.

    That 4400rpm dip looks like it almost follows your AFRs. Side note, looks like you gained like 55whp at around 3800rpms! However, looks like you have consistent loses of hp and tq from 4700rpms onwards.

    Can you tune the car using Speed Density? That'll eliminate the MAF issue. Not sure what ECUs Rossis use.

  8. #8
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    Ha, I wish I had the knowledge about the mold myself! It was a lot of YouTube time...

    I don't believe the stock ECU supports speed density sensors. Otherwise I would have switched to that. Maybe some folks here have some experience...

  9. #9
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    I have never max out a MAF on a Rossion and i have tuned over 20 cars some making over 500HP not sure what is wrong

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by gafernandez View Post
    I have never max out a MAF on a Rossion and i have tuned over 20 cars some making over 500HP not sure what is wrong
    Are you using the Pro-M Racing MAF?

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