Hi. could someone please tell me the best, or only way to get at the HVAC controls? Is the only or best way from under the car removing the floor panel and drivers seat? thanks in advance.
Member in Neutral
Air conditioning HVAC control replacenent
Hi. could someone please tell me the best, or only way to get at the HVAC controls? Is the only or best way from under the car removing the floor panel and drivers seat? thanks in advance.
Rossion 028
I have a Rossion, not sure if you’re asking about noble or Rossion. To get to just the heater controls (not the control valve in the tunnel), I took out the radio and got access through the hole.
Member in Neutral
Thanks for your response I have a 2004 M12 3 or. Removing the radio won't help with this model. Is anyone else familiar with how to get to the controls and or the heater control valve. Is the only way through the bottom while the car is on the lift? Is that the best way?
214
http://www.nobleforums.com/showthrea...810#post101810Originally Posted by mshader
Member in Neutral
thank you for that information. it is just what I was looking for. unfortunate that it is so difficult.
Rossion 028
Are you near Reno?
Member in Neutral
does anyone know where to buy hvac control panel for 2004 m12gto-3r
28
Put this part number in EBay UK site. It’s where I got mine. Also Raiden Performance has a AC control knob on their site
Approved Install/Service Center
The controls and the heater valve are two separate things, accessed in different ways. The heater valve is easy - just remove the front tunnel vent panel underneath the car, push the hoses out of the way, and reach in. It’s a little cramped, but easily doable.
The hvac controls are another matter altogether. On a Noble, I usually remove the passenger seat, the carpeted panel that covers the fuse/relay box, the metal panel that goes under the radio, and the radio panel. Then, I lie down where the seat was, and use a small 1/4” ratchet with an 8mm deep or semi-deep socket and a whole variety of extensions (locking extensions are preferred) to remove the nuts that hold the faceplate in place. You’ll need a good flashlight and a mirror to spot the nuts - it’s best if you also have a good picture of the back of the faceplate so you know where the fasteners are before fishing around. You’ll probably end up removing several of the fasteners by feel, so if you don’t have the experience to be able to work blind, you might not want to do this job….
Before you start this job, I suggest that you buy some M5 nylock nuts and some M5 fender washers. Since you’re working blindly in an almost inaccessible place, you’re bound to drop a few fasteners - when you do, it isn’t likely that you’ll be able to retrieve the dropped fastener. Also, it makes reassembly much easier if you superglue the nuts and washers together. That way, you don’t have to balance the washer on the stud while trying to thread on the nut.
One thing to consider - the heater in most modern cars nowadays regulate cabin temperature by blending ambient air with air that’s been heated by the heater core. If you want hotter cabin temperature, add less ambient temperature air. In the Noble/Rossion, they’re trying to regulate the air temperature by adjusting the temperature of the coolant going into the heater core. The problem with this is this is that you don’t have a supply of cold water to mix in to get the desired temperature. Once the engine warms up and temperatures equalize/stabilize throughout the system, you end up with a cooling system full of 170+ degrees F water, which means you have a 170+ degree heater core, putting out air that’s a single temperature, probably too hot. Even if you turn down the heater control to the lowest heat setting, once the heater core heat soaks and the coolant temp stabilizes, you’ll still be putting out air that’s too hot…
Last edited by Jimbo; 12-22-2021 at 04:31 PM.
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