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Thread: ECU program fix

  1. #1
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    May 2005
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    Default ECU program fix

    I just pulled my ECU out today and sent it to 1g to have it reprogrammed. It was stalling at stoplights with the A/C on. They tell me it will fix that. Took about twenty minutes from start to finish and didn't even need Nitrile gloves! While I was in there I checked the wires from the alternator and Greg Robb covered them and ran them perfect, no problems here.
    Drew
    _______________
    Monza Red M400 #96 Sold
    2011 S550
    2013 ML 63
    1968 chevy C10
    trophy truck
    Hennessy Viper
    Widebody SL 550

  2. #2
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    Default

    Let us know if it fixes it. We will keep UPS busy sending ECUs back.

  3. #3

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    The ECU is next on my hit parade if the new FPR doesnt fix things. I dont want to lose my Roush upgrade tho..
    "Some people play hard to get... I play hard to want."
    Noble: 05 M12, M400 turbos, RPI water/oil cooling, RPI Exhaust

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    Default ECU fix?...

    I installed a reprogrammed ECU with the revised idle map; and when the car is warm, it stalls just like the original ECU did...

    Any ideas out there?
    '05 M400 #117 wingless
    '08 MDX tech, sport & entertainment -can you do .84g in an SUV?
    '06 Civic Hybrid 92hp and it's the fastest 'single occupant' car in L.A...
    '01 Vino stupid fun
    '91 CRX 2.0 liter Vtec, 315 supercharged hp, sleepy HF...

  5. #5
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    The stalling at idle with AC on, specifically after warm restart is a known issue. The revised MAP was suppose to have advanced the timing value at idle RPM range. From what I remember on the "owners forum" the results were mixed.
    If you are experiencing the above condition, turn off the AC prior to warm restart and then after approximately 30 seconds of engine running turn the AC on. Early owners had some success with that approach even after the revised MAP failed to correct the stalling.
    The above suggestion assumes that your idle RPM is set correctly.
    Gregg A. Imel

  6. #6
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    I recently posted this on the 1g site regarding my experience and solution to the stalling issue with my car, for those of you that are members (you have to be an owner to be a member). Here it is again:

    As many of you know I fought a long battle with my car intermitantly
    stalling without warning. I went through 3 ECU's thinking that was
    the cause, even though Mike felt that something else was the problem.
    He was right as usual. I also readjusted the idle screw and reset the
    ECU many times over the course of several months. I found that in my
    case resetting the ECU and even replacing the ECU would only solve
    the problem for a very short period of time and then it would start
    acting up again. That's because it is an adaptive ECU. So that ruled
    out the ECU as the cause.

    After a lot of frustration, I finally took it to a very knowledgeable
    tuner that specializes in boosted cars. He pressurized the vacuum
    system and found two vacuum leaks. Once those were repaired, we
    hooked up his laptop and ran the Noble diagnostic program while the
    car was warm and idling. We then set the throttle plate sensor
    voltage at 1.3 volts by adjusting the idle screw. There is a voltage
    range within which the ECU will control the idle properly (assuming
    that you have no vaccuum leaks like I did). Once you set it in that
    range the ECU takes over the idle control. I believe that Mike said
    the range was 1.0-1.6 volts, so correct me if I'm wrong about that
    Mike. Anything outside of that range and the ECU can't properly
    control the idle (the throttle plate is closed too far or too wide
    open and the idle air mixture gets screwed up). That is why mine
    would never run properly, because it was always trying to compensate
    for a vacuum leak and couldn't.

    The reason for all of this is that the Noble spec engine does not use
    the idle air control valve that is normally on the Duratec engine (on
    top of the throttle body where you now see a block-off plate).
    Therefore the ECU has to control the idle and it can't if the
    throttle plate is at the wrong angle (or there is a vacuum leak). So,
    be careful thinking that just increasing the idle with the idle screw
    and then resetting the ECU will solve your problem. If you turn it
    too far, you will make it even worse. Make sure you don't have any
    vacuum leaks first. Then use the diagnostic program with a laptop and
    set the throttle plate sensor voltage in the proper range. I'm sure
    that Mike can add to or correct me on some of this, but that is
    basically what I discovered and how my problem was taken care of. I
    was able to drive the car for a couple of days after that and I never
    could get it to stall again. The idle also got smoother and smoother
    as I drove it. Unfortunatley the weather changed right after that and
    I had to put it away for the winter.:-(

    By the way, the throttle response is also now 100% better without any
    vacuum leaks. The car just came to life after fixing those leaks.

    Hope that helps.

    Craig

  7. #7
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    Execellent information - maybe we could collectively develop a standard test proceedure for the critical vacuum lines.

    Can you provide for info on the 1G website for owners? I have not heard of this before and will be an owner when the new chassis arrives next month.

    Thanks,

  8. #8
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    Does 1G lock the ecu so no other tuners have access to it?
    I offer port and polished heads for any year duratec! www.pnpheads.com

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by kinger
    Does 1G lock the ecu so no other tuners have access to it?
    Yes. Only Mike Evangelo has access to it here in the US. The factory and Trevor @ Roush UK have access to it in the UK.

    Craig

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave G.
    Execellent information - maybe we could collectively develop a standard test proceedure for the critical vacuum lines.

    Can you provide for info on the 1G website for owners? I have not heard of this before and will be an owner when the new chassis arrives next month.

    Thanks,
    Dave G.,

    It has been a while since I joined it but I believe you can do so, once you are an owner of a Noble in the US, if you request membership by sending an email to:

    1GNoble-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

    This group is for communicating with Mike Evangelo at 1g and so that 1g can disseminate information to us as a group, etc.

    There is also a private US owner's group that you can join by sending a request to join by email to:

    NobleownersinUSA-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

    This group is just for conversations between owners of the cars.


    Craig

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