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Thread: Heat shielding stock intercooler

  1. #1

    Default Heat shielding stock intercooler

    As I've noted in another thread, the IC heat soak problem is particularly acute here in Hawaii where our ambient temperatures are generally between 80 and 90. After about 10 laps on our 1.36 mile track, I experienced the severe power loss, as the IC heated and the ECU retarded ignition and lowered boost. Also as I mentioned, I tried a little experiment with common household fiberglass insulation batons (the kind that are about 4Ē thick that you put in your walls). I removed the paper backing and duct taped batons under and on the sides of the intercooler box and stuffed some between the rear turbo and the box. To make a long story short, it worked fabulously. The output end of the intercooler remained cool after two 15 lap sessions (with only a brief time in between).
    Because of the melting temperature of this stuff, itís not the ideal material for long term use. The products available from Pegasus and other sites is generally quite thin, like a quarter inch max, though it has reflective coverings of aluminum, s/s, or a higher temp alloy. I have contacted boiler and furnace supply houses and discovered Cerablanket, a ceramic wool material in one inch thickness thatís good to 2200 degrees. Itís only available with reflective backing by special order of huge quantities, so they recommend coating it for durability and reflectivity with ITC-100 ceramic thermal coating. Iíve order a 2íx10íx1Ē piece of Cerablanket (around $50) and two pints of ITC-100 (around $80). My intention is to use high temp epoxy to glue batons to the outside of the IC box and place it in other heat vulnerable areas of the engine bay.
    I also have two 8Ē Zirgo fans ordered (a bit over $200 with relay). My hope is that this combination will be a reasonably simple and effective first fix. Since my experiment with the glass wool worked so well, I canít imagine why this shouldnít. My engine bay wonít be as pretty as with Greg Robbís incredible IC box replacement, but it will hopefully eliminate the need to use turbo blankets and exhaust system heat tapes (decreasing the life of the turbos and piping). I can always go the route of a replacement IC and IC box if it doesnít work. Since this is such a well know problem, I cannot figure out why better insulation is not installed in the factory.
    Iíll keep you tuned.

    PS: 1g is sending me out a new throttle cable to replace my fried one. They now use ones custom made by Greg Robb, rather than waiting for the lower quality OE models to ship from overseas. We'll make sure it's fully protected from heat this time.

  2. #2
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    Pictures please.

  3. #3

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    That's good news that worked out for you.

    Be careful about the throttle cable routing. Even with shielded cabling, you want to make sure to route it as far from the hot spots (ahem, front turbo) as possible.
    RacePrecision GotApex

    "Be ashamed to die until you have won some victory for humanity." ~ Horace Mann

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    Dr.

    This is kind of an FYI. You have probably read some of the posts on PH and here that covered this topic, so maybe I am preaching to the choir a little and I'm sure that Mr. Cundy can add to this as well. There has been a lot of discussion about the best way to eliminate the IC heat soak issue, but the simplest and best way seems to be the simple addition of a single fan (two may be overkill) on the IC that is operated from a thermal switch. That is the principal of the operating system developed by Matt Faulks, although he has also developed what he and others feel is a more efficient IC that is manufactured differently than the OEM unit.

    That is all that seems to have been necessary to cure the problem from those that have tried it and reported the results. My point is that the addition of thermal padding, etc. may not even be necessary, except that it may somewhat delay the actuation of the thermal switch to turn on the fan. I think you may want to consider just installing one fan first and see what that does for you. If that alone doesn't solve the problem, I would be surprised. Just trying to save you from doing something that is not necessary. Slapping battens on your IC box doesn't sound too attractive to me and once slapped on with epoxy, they will be there forever.

    I agree that the factory should do something differently to cure the problem, but I think all they really need to do is install a single fan on a thermal switch, not add more expensive thermal barriers. At least that seems to be the concensus of those folks using the single-fan Faulks Performance approach. None of them have the problem any more.......cue Mr. Cundy, please.......

    Craig

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    Quote Originally Posted by caccobra
    .......cue Mr. Cundy, please.......
    That's Dr. Cundy.
    Ferrari 308GTSi.
    Lotus Elise, SY, SCCA T2 legal.
    Noble M400, 515bhp.

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    FYI, I have run 25 to 30 minute track sessions when the ambient was 100 degrees with no noticeable power loss. I have the bigger 1G IC and a fan.

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    Quote Originally Posted by turnbaugh
    FYI, I have run 25 to 30 minute track sessions when the ambient was 100 degrees with no noticeable power loss. I have the bigger 1G IC and a fan.
    I rest my case. Thank you Dr. Turnbaugh!

    Dr. Craig

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    Quote Originally Posted by caccobra
    I rest my case. Thank you Dr. Turnbaugh!

    Dr. Craig
    Noble - a car with a most educated clientele.

    Dr. Mike, Ph.D.
    Ferrari 308GTSi.
    Lotus Elise, SY, SCCA T2 legal.
    Noble M400, 515bhp.

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    Paging Dr. Howard... Dr. Fine... Dr. Howard...
    -- Mike
    04 Noble M12 GTO-3R (Robb and Hoover)
    http://www.turbohoses.com/Nobleperformance.htm
    97 3000GT VR-4
    00 Dakota Sport

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    Good one, Dr. Mike.

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