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Thread: Noble M400 car to ECU plug (RR03)

  1. #1
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    Default Noble M400 car to ECU plug (RR03)

    I'm switching to the Rossion harness and ECU, and everything seems to be plug and play except the main ECU to car connector. The Noble has an 8 pin rectangle plug labeled RR03 in the build manual (only 7 of the 8 pins are used). It contains ECU power, tach, coolant temp, oil, etc. The Rossion one is round with all the same wires and colors.

    I really don't want to chop off the harness plug on my car, but would rather buy the connector and wire it in properly. Does anyone know where Noble obtained these harness connectors? It's probably a really cheap part, I just don't know where to buy one. Also looking for the 2 pin fuel pump harness connector which is right next to it.

  2. #2

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    Umm, If you're changing to the Rossion Harness I'm confused as to why you'd need to cut or rewire anything. That said if you can get some good pictures of the connector and get ahold of an engineer at Digikey or Mouser they're usually pretty helpful in finding a mating connector for just about anything.

  3. #3
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    Here is a pic of the plugs from the MBE to the Noble chassis. One jumper plug (no longer need), one 8 pin plug (7 actually used, this is RR03 which I want) for tach, coolant temp, 2 for power, ignition, etc. The 2 pin plug is fuel pump power and ground.
    The Rossion uses a gray circular plug with all the same wires, but it's literally like putting a square plug in a round hole. I'll try to get a pic up tonight.

    Unfortunately I sold my M400 harness to Hoover, so I no longer have these plugs. I haven't been able to get ahold of him, but originally he did say he had spare ones he could provide.
    Last edited by ashanson; 04-10-2015 at 04:03 PM.

  4. #4

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    ouch, that fuel pump connector looks pretty crispy

  5. #5
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    Yea, going to heat wrap them this time They are inches from the front turbo downpipe, which was also wrapped but with cheap stuff it looks like. The new downpipe has way better wrap on it.

  6. #6

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    I replaced that cheap POS with a waterproof Deutsch connector when I rewired the engine bay. I have one or two factory engine harnesses in the attic - I'll see if I can work out the part number tomorrow.

    Jeff

  7. #7

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    I had a guy in England send me an entire M12 GTO harness years ago, The wire for the fuel pump was blue inside. It looked like it had had way too many amps put through it. Plus the previous owner or installer had botched and patched quite a few things. I ended up rebuilding almost the entire thing from scratch using high temp Teflon coated wire and laced and sleeved the entire harness where possible. I as well replaced many connectors with Deutsch connectors as they are top notch in my book. In addition I added a relay for the fuel pump to the setup. I was under the impression that at some point later a factory service bulletin about doing the same came out but I'm unsure. I do know there were some differences in the UK cars and the ones stateside, For instance Amber rear turn indicators versus the U.S. using a "Blinking break light" Which I never really understood. Seems as if it would have been easier to use euro spec Hyundai tails in everything to make it simpler as amber rear turns are not only legal but quite common in the U.S.

    There were a ton of places in the harness that looks as if they'd been rubbing and almost, and in some cases had gone through the insulation. I sleeved what I could and advised the owner to use some of those rubber lined "P clips" to attach the harness as often as possible. And good heavy zip ties as well. We also added a slightly different configuration to the from headlights where the H.I.D. ballasts attached to the bottom of the headlight cover and used a relay to feed power to the ballast and the factory headlight signal to control it.
    Last edited by DukeGrail; 04-11-2015 at 08:52 PM.

  8. #8

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    I examined the connector under pretty high magnification and I don't see any markings that would point to a particular manufacturer. My guess is that these connectors are not made by one of the big name connector companies.

    If you want just the housings, I will pop the pins out and send them to you. Or I can send the assembled connector with several inches of wire crimped to the pins so you can graft it into your harness. Shoot me a PM with your address if you want the parts.




    Edit: Possible "duh" moment on my part - you probably want the mating part to the piece in my pic above (and you pic farther up). I'm doing a massive Noble paraphernalia gathering on the garage floor this weekend (5 MBEs!), but so far I have not found the mating 8 pin connector.

    Jeff
    Last edited by NobleM400; 04-11-2015 at 03:56 PM. Reason: had a "duh" moment

  9. #9
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    No worries, thanks for the offer though.
    Today I ended up pulling the pins from the stock connector, and wiring the Rossion ECU plug in its place. It was actually a lot easier than I anticipated since I had the front turbo downpipe out, there was a lot of room to work.

    Unfortunately, I fear something isn't right. When I turned the key to acc/ignition, the fuel pump didn't prime. But my new boost controller is tapped off the red/green ignition wire and it turned on, so at least I know the ECU is getting power as well. Time to trouble shoot tomorrow.

  10. #10
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    After looking through the Rossion wiring diagrams, it appears the Rossion ECU fuel pump wire is just a relay driver, and Willie told me he thought it was a ground driven trigger as well, so I think I've found the problem. I'll test out voltage and/or ground continuity tomorrow to verify, then direct wire a relay to the battery and use the ECU trigger, whether it be 12v or ground trigger.

    Can anyone confirm the Noble 2 pin plug for the fuel pump is actually a power plug, and not relay triggers? I'll probably find out when I dig into it tomorrow, but knowing ahead of time might save me a little work. If so, the direct wire should get me a little more oomph from the pump, the stock wiring seemed pretty small.

    Edit: oddly enough, I've done quite a bit of electrical work, and I took EE classes in college so I know circuits and such, but I've never actually wired a relay before. For a ground triggered relay, I'd hook the battery supply to 30 and 86, the trigger wire to 85, and the pump power to 87 right? Like in the picture here:
    http://s413.photobucket.com/user/mus...igger.jpg.html
    Last edited by ashanson; 04-12-2015 at 10:04 PM.

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